Ellerbe Fine Foods. On Magnolia.

Ice cream dessert at Ellerbe

Ellerbe Fine Foods is located in an up-and-coming neighborhood of Fort Worth: the north-Fairmount / hospital district on West Magnolia.

This is a guest post by Travis Cooper

The ambience is a trifle odd, but peaceful and pleasant nonetheless. The stark contrast between varnished industrial concrete floors and wooden ceiling rafters actually works. The very soft background music, though composed of a combination of modern pop and covers of older rock/pop, also seems strangely fitting (one of the songs was a woman doing a cover of Pink Floyd’s “Comfortably Numb,” and somehow it didn’t feel out-of-place). The colors are soft and pleasing to the eye: light green and white. Tall, large windows give the interior a feeling of space and a view of West Magnolia – it feels more “open” than most restaurants.

Soon after we sat down, the waitress brought bread, butter, and salt to our table. Apparently the bread – French baguette – is flown in daily from La Brea bakery in Los Angeles. The butter is unsalted, since they provide coarse sea salt to add to the butter and bread. The bread was tasty and of good texture, and the butter and salt were a good combination.

We ordered rabbit terrine as an appetizer: rabbit pate on toast, over arugula with pistachios and wine-soaked cranberries. It was decent, but I’ve only had pate once or twice, so I’m no expert, and besides, I’m not a pate kind of guy.

The two entrees were absolutely wonderful. The wife had boar, rubbed in spices, over mesquite bean blinis fried in cinnamon, accompanied with fried pieces of cactus (“nopalitos”) – a very unique and very tasty dish. I had pheasant, served over arugula and cornbread stuffing/dressing, topped with little pieces of fried squash and bacon and with a barbeque-esque glaze. I don’t usually like stuffing, and squash doesn’t do much for me, and I had never tried pheasant before, so it was a risk. But, the waitress highly recommended it (one of at least two recommendations that were perfect). It was one of the best entrees I’ve ever had – perfect texture, combination of flavors, size, etc. An astounding dish.

We had oysters on the side – I’ve had oysters only once or twice, and never liked them, but thought I’d give it a shot – and they were quite good. The wife would have preferred them a little more cooked, but then again she doesn’t like her ribeye or filet rare/medium-rare, so . . . Anyway, I liked the oysters, though the texture of oysters does disturb me a bit.

Dessert was splendid. The wife got rice pudding brulee – it was just what it sounds like. The rice pudding was perfect: texture, temperature, and flavor were just right. I got a chocolate mousse dish (called “shokinag pave”) that was tremendous: a layer of stiff but creamy chocolate mousse, covered in melted chocolate sauce with chicory, topped with caramel corn. We split a glass of Sauternes (dessert wine) – brilliant choice (recommended, as was the chocolate mousse, by the waitress).

The service was very good though not excellent (we were very low on water once or twice). As I said before, the waitress’s recommendations were all of them brilliant, for which we were very grateful.

All in all, I would go back to Ellerbe’s again before I went back to two of my favorite restaurants: Saint-Emilion and the Reata. So, yes, two thumbs up on an absolutely wonderful all-around dining experience.

Website: Ellerbe Fine Foods

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Editors Note: Mr. Travis Cooper teaches Philosophy at the College of St Thomas More. He is about six months from completing his doctoral dissertation. Travis is married with three children, and lives in the Meadowbrook area of Fort Worth, Texas.

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Bailey's Prime Steakhouse and Patrizio Pasta

"Bailey's Prime Steakhouse and Patrizio Pasta coming to West 7th."

That is the headline at DFW.com and the Star-Telegram website. The Star-Telegram article is little more than an announcement. I have never been to the Bailey's Steakhouse in Dallas, so I did a little research. The steakhouse was reviewed by the The Dallas Morning News restaurant critic -- but not favorably. As a matter of fact, he pretty much trashed it. http://www.dallasnews.com/sharedcontentl

I have to admit to having mixed feelings on the mega-steakhouses in general, at least from the view of a personal dining choice. The cost to build and build-out one of these places is anywhere from 2 -- 10 million dollars. The Del Friscos in Philly cost around 7 million, I hear. The prospective clientele for these restaurants is not the local diner but the business diner. We need them in the city but when the wife and I are going out for a special dinner, I want the money going into good food and not faux-velvet wall paper. But that's me.

Patrizio Pasta looks like a nice medium priced Italian restaurant. Again, I have never been to any of their Dallas-area locations.

Let's hope for the best in both restaurants, anyone with a comment on Bailey's or Patrizios please weigh in. Thanks.

Shula's Grill 347. Thursday Night Jazz.

Guest Post by Rebecca

Tomorrow night launches the first "Thursday Night Live Jazz" at Shula's 347 Grill. Shula's Grill is in the newly renovated Sheraton just north of I30 downtown (formerly, the Ramada). "Newly renovated" understates the actual cost of renovation which was $50 million. It is now a very attractive hotel and restaurant.

I had lunch yesterday at Shula's 347 and walked through the hotel as well. As a restaurant, I would put Shula's in the Charleston's category. Casual atmosphere, quality food. Steaks, seafood, salads, sandwiches. We had the grilled shrimp as an appetizer and it was delicious -- and the shrimp were jumbo as advertised. It is reasonably priced for the "casual dining" category. I liked it a lot.

The Thursday Night Jazz is a new event for the restaurant and something they seemed very excited about. The Freddie Jones Jazz Band will perform for the first three weeks. Food and drink specials will be offered and there is no cover charge.

One final Suggestion. If you arrive before 6:30 take a walk through the renovated Water Gardens. It is worth a visit.

But definitely consider the Jazz night at Shula's.

Other musical groups in the initial line up alternating with Freddie Jones include:

• Adonis Rose Quintet
• Texas Gypsies
• Breggett Rideau
• Rachella Parks.

For more information on Shula's. http://www.donshula.com

(They tell me there is Trolley service from Downtown South to Sundance Square. If you have used it, please let me know how it is.)

Saint-Emilion. Again. Kind of.

My son, Stephen, went to Saint-Emilion for his anniversary a couple nights ago. I asked him to write a review of it.

He did.

Here it is:

"Saint Emilion: best restaurant I have ever been to in my life."

Maybe I should have more specific about how long the review should be. High praise, nevertheless.
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Zambrano's: Great for Food & Wine Lovers.

Guest post by Becca

Brinton and I decided to take advantage of a night out without the kids and went downtown last night.

We were looking for somewhere we could sit outside and not feel rushed. We went into the Omni Hotel (which is really amazing) and looked through their lobby of restaurants and bars only to decide that we wanted to patronize a local restaurant. The Omni was a bit too corporate for our mood.

We decided on Zambrano's, the local wine bar started by Cef Zambrano. Cef was the Somelier at Del Friscos before starting his own place -- and it is enjoyable to learn from someone who really has a passion for what he does --seriously guys, forget Wine Styles! Zambrano's, is the real deal. I was in the mood for a Rose, but did not know which one. The waitress retrieved Cef and he told us about some bottles he had in his cellar which were very reasonably priced at $25 per bottle. We chose the Sawyer Rose of Merlot from Napa and loved it! In fact we loved it so much we finished the bottle. (Editors note: just one?) For a meal we had an appetizer, and split the Garden Vegetable Pizza and Creme Brulee. Total cost: about $60.00.

Brinton and I have been visiting wine bars lately looking for a place we feel comfortable. We did not like Winslows. I wanted to leave the minute I arrived because it is too pretentious. I didn't feel like I could drop in casually with Brinton and just get a drink. On our last visit, we asked the manager/owner(?) for some help in choosing a wine and were told, in so many words, to buy the most expensive wine on the menu. When we told him our budget, he demured and suggested we buy wine by the glass. Not quite what I was looking for. We finally chose a moderately priced wine on our own and purchased it by the glass. We were approached more than once about buying the bottle. Needless to say we bolted as soon as we were done.

We have tried Wine Styles which is fine, but I don't really like the chain feel. Wine Styles is a franchise, and feels like it.

Put a Cork in It, on Park Hill, is cute but I received no help in the wine-choosing. I was overwhelmed by all the wines, and started wishing I was at Costco where I could check the ratings.

Pop's Safari is great --love the comfortable chairs! But I could do without the heavy cigar smell. I have to wash everything when I get home because the smell is so strong.

We will definitely go back to Zambrano's. The service was exactly what I was looking for. Also, Cef is licensed to sell retail, so you can call him for a special party, or have him hand pick a wine within your budget.

Z WINE CELLAR
910 Houston Street
Suite 110
Fort Worth, Texas 76102
Phone: (817) 850-WINE Hours:

Mon-Thurs (4:30 pm - 11 pm)
Friday (4:30 pm - 1 am)
Saturday (4:30 pm - 1 am)
Closed Sundays

http://zambranowines.com/

Eddie V's Restaurant Review: Great.

Brinton and I went to Eddie V's last night with our friend, Muffin, and had a lovely Lenten, fish dinner. Since it was Friday, we decided to try Fort Worth's new fish restaurant -- and we were very happy with the entire experience (plus, Zeke's was packed with a line "out the door"). The first available reservation was 9 pm, which we took. They told us that they have been booked solid since they opened.

We were seated promptly and were walked by the fabulous looking lobster bar were diners pick from one of the fresh lobster tails that are packed on a mountain of ice.

We started with the Ahi Tartar, which was served with avocado, onion, and tomato. The server suggested mixing all three components before eating.

He was right, it was excellent!

The fish was cold and fresh and drizzled with sesame and curry oils. It was served with sesame flatbread.

For drinks, I had the Fort Worth Cosmo and Brinton had the sweet tea mojito (not his first choice, but I wanted to taste it) and Mary had the house Cabernet. All were good.

For the main course, I had the Salmon. It was cooked medium rare, which I like, served on a bed of asparagus, and had a butter sauce with capers and Parmesan. It was delicious. Brinton had red Snapper and was very happy with the portion and the flavor. Mary ordered the Filet of Sole which came on a lovely lemon butter sauce. I liked that the fish was served on top of the sauces instead of the normal drowning of sauce (maybe to cover for the fact that the fish is none too fresh?).

We were very pleased with our dinner and will definitely go again.
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Becca (Eastside) told me that she considers Eddie V's the best seafood restaurant in Fort Worth. I did not ask her the cost of the meal for three but I am sure it is as expected for a nicer restaurant. As to the economy and its effect on "expendable income." Eddie' V's is a big restaurant and has been full since it opened.

Eddie V's
Museum Place
3100 West 7th Street
Fort Worth, TX 76107



Also, See the Best of Fort Worth 2010


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La Piazza, Fort Worth's Best Italian?

St. Valentine's Day brought F&FW a nice run of fine-dining reviews, including reviews of Grace, Bistro Louise, and now La Piazza restaurants. Thank you Sunni, Jake, and, for this post, Becca/East. Becca was accompanied by husband, Brinton.
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On Valentine's Day we decided to try something new. La Piazza is tucked away in a back corner of University Park Village and has been there since 1991.

Entrance:
The entrance is located through the courtyard and the regulars know the parking is located behind the building. So, no need to know you are in an outdoor shopping mall.

Dress code:
My husband was told that there is a dress code when he made the reservation. No tie is required but they ask that men wear a jacket. It is not a stuffy place but it was very nice and the dress code helps with the atmosphere.
(editor's comment: I would go for that reason alone, and might as well require the tie, too.)

Menu:
There was a fixed price menu for Valentine's Day. We both ordered the salad, which was perfectly cold with crisp, fresh lettuce, tomatoes, onion and capers. The salad dressing was a creamy garlic and was delicious. I ordered the veal with green peppercorn sauce and Brinton ordered the sole with lemon butter sauce. I was thrilled with my dish, the veal was tender and the sauce perfect. Brinton said that his sole was good but should have had more than a drizzle of sauce because it was so good. Both entrees were served with sides of roast potato and spinach. For desert I ordered the cheesecake -- good, Brinton ordered the melting chocolate cake -- heavenly.

The service was great and the atmosphere inviting. We will definitely go back.

La Piazza
1600 S University Dr # 601
Fort Worth, TX 76107
(817) 334-0000

Bistro Louise Valentines Day Dinner

Yesterday was Valentine's Day... filled with love, chocolate, and (for some) fantastic meals...

And after reading a post about Romantic Dinners at Eat This Fort Worth, I felt obligated to test out one of the restaurants on my fiance, as I was sure she wouldn't mind.

So I made reservations at 8:45 PM at Bistro Louise, a highly recommended French/Italian/Spanish Bistro...

I'll give you a quick review and then break down each course... Overall the food was fantastic. Definitely something that I had questioned I'd taste in Fort Worth. The mix of styles in the limited Valentine's day menu offered very very very bold flavors. The service was less than par as I believe they oversold their "by reservation" seats, not counting on people wanting to dine for longer hours.

Now onto the details...

The first course was a sweet-onion tart topped with red-wine onions and a shooter of warm zucchini and basil soup. The tart tasted as advertised, topped with confectioners sugar. The zucchini and basil shooter came in a tall shot glass, served warm. It was one of the best tasting, simple things we had the whole night.

The second course found us with Hawaiian Kona Kampachi Shashimi with Thai Guacamole and another dish composing of prosciutto wrapped plums with Asian greens, goat cheese, and a champagne vinaigrette. Both choices we definitely wished we had more of. The shashimi was incredibly thin sliced, not much meat, but the Thai guac (guac + wasabi was what I gathered) and red chile sauce definitely gave the whole dish a zing that was welcomed. There needed to be more Kona Kampachi as you could barely see it on your plate in the low lighting. On the other hand, the grilled plums wrapped in prosciutto was a very warm and welcoming taste. I'm a *huge* fan of goat cheese and the vinaigrette gave a nice bite to the salad. Both excellent dishes.

The third course was a tough decision, with the selections not lending to a clear winner. Becca shot for the saffron pappardelle with veal ragout, grilled quail and a breast of guinea hen. While I chose the lemon sole with tempura lobster, chanterelle sauce and lobster mashed potatoes. The pappardelle with ragout and game birds had a very heavy sage taste. Earthy, homey, and borderline spicey. Probably my favorite of the two main course dishes. The lemon sole had a buttery, lobster taste. Given the lobster mashed potatoes and tempura lobster bite, I figured the sauce would be a buttery delite, but not necessarily a lobster tasted all the way around. I'm not quite sure where the "lemon" came in with the sole, but it was still a rich and savory dish. The plating was a little rushed, as when you're serving sauces, you can easily observe the mistakes. Not a huge issue, but I like the sauces on the dish and not on the edges of the plate.

For the desert course, it was hard to pass up the Bistro Louise's strawberry craquelin, as strawberries are my favorite fruit, but there was something about the other choice that led me it's direction. Profiteroles with coffee and pistachio ice creams, port-cherry sauce and hot-fudge sauce. While waiting for this last section, we ordered coffee and waited... and waited... and waited until our cups were filled with a bitter tasting burnt coffee. The saving grace was the pistachio ice cream, though small in amount, it was a nice sweet treat.

And finally, the service. One word: oversold. We had reservations at 8:45PM and upon arrival, we waited another half hour before we were seated. So much for "reservations". The woman at the bar was a hostess, not a bartender as who know's where the *real* bartender was. She served us a "vintage" 2008 Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. The meals were oddly paced as the first two took some time to come out while the last dishes, including the desert were push into our faces just after removing our previous course plates. There were several people *after* us who were waiting for their table for well over a half hour. Not to mention I was told on the phone, by Louise herself, that I had a special table secluded in a corner... which apparently means a small, two person table near a post along the bus boy route... It felt as if they over sold their reservations for the night... and that with the crowded tables and fumbling service staff, it could have been more special.

So overall... the $261.20 price tag (including wine and tip) was slightly hefty, but well worth it. It's nice to be able to treat my fiance to a wonderful Valentine's Day dinner, where we get to dress up and fine dine.
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Editor's note: My thanks to Jake for the post.
He can be found at: http://www.thoughtstoblog.com/

Fallen from Grace.

Last year, when Grace Restaurant began to send out press releases, I looked forward to seeing what Fort Worth's newest downtown restaurant would be. My only concern with the publicity was the possibility of Grace over-promoting themselves, because if you are not what you have promoted, the bad news travels fast. And frankly, I want any new downtown business to do well.

When friends of mine, whose opinion I respect, visited Grace and sent in a review, I thought I would pass it on, though somewhat reluctantly, because I think it is safe to say that their feelings were mixed, and that overall, they were disappointed.

The following is the review from Sunni and her husband, Nick:
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We went to Grace last night and had a nice evening, but had a mixed experience with the food. . . the service left much to be desired, very rough around the edges, not knowledgeable,
no polish . . . the bartender was friendly, which was a nice surprise from the usual "too cool to be nice" attitude . . . and mixed a good martini according to Nick's specifications.

Appetizers:

Nick -- Cold Smoked Salmon. Should be called Salmon Sashimi- I have never been served sashimi masquerading as smoked. It had great flavor, but call it what it is!

Sunni -- Citrus Roasted Beets. Very disappointing. I love beets when they are treated right. The beets had no flavor . . . dressing was too sweet and had none of the advertised shallot flavor . . . . bummer of the evening. For a delicious beet salad, try the Vault's Roasted Beet and Pear.

Wine:
We told the sommelier we loved Oregon wine, especially Williamette pinots, and she came up with the 2006 Gypsy Dancer Pinot Noir. It was great -- light and spicy. Nick said, "really clear" and I agree. Great "food" wine.

Entrees:

Nick -- Bone-in rib eye (medium - hot red center with pink edges). Not impressed, none of the richness expected with a rib eye, too charred on the outside (second miss of the night).

Sunni -- The 8 ounce filet (medium) was better than the last two steaks I have had at Del Frisco's, just a hint of fennel on the outside, velvety smooth and tender. Delicious.

Sides:
Baby Spinach, with garlic and cured meat. Great, no bitterness, sauteed but still with a hint of crunch.

Roasted fingerling potatoes, with brussel sprouts. Delicious but extremely rich due to the bacon grease, potatoes tender and flavorful, sprouts roasty, and not bitter, with a slight crunch.

Dessert:

Hot fudge sundae -- vanilla bean ice cream, in house chocolate ganache and marshmallows, butterscotch. Great. We chose this because of the in-house marshmallows and were not disappointed. Evidently the ice cream (Henry's Organic) is made in Plano. I have been wanting to make marshmallows since the Star Telegram ran a recipe around the end of October.

The meal, with a $72 bottle of wine, came to about $200.
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I included all the positive remarks from Sunni and edited, with her permission, the overall review. When I asked Sunni if they would return to Grace, given the experience, she replied, that if other diners reviewed Grace more positively than she had, that she would, but that Nick would need a lot more convincing.

So there you have it.

Thank you, Sunni. If others have visited Grace and would like to share an opinion please email me.

Saint- Emilion. Going Back Soon.

Posted by F&FW reviewer, Rebecca J.S.

On Monday, we enjoyed an excellent dinner at a longtime Fort Worth favorite: Saint-Emilion.

The Saint-Emilion restaurant is a quaint cottage on 7th Street near Montgomery with about 15 tables. After my husband Brinton and I were seated, we were met at our table by a very knowledgeable somelier who suggested a French Bordeaux by the glass. Good choice. Once we had received our wine our waitress came with a board of house specialties and our menus. The Saint-Emilion menu is a fixed price menu: $43.95 per person for 4 courses, and $23.95 per person for a single course meal. We chose the four-course. Another good choice.

I started with a wonderful smoked salmon appetizer, Brinton ordered the avocado and crab meat plate. The salads were next, served cold and fresh with goat cheese and walnuts and were excellent. For an entree, I had the butterfish with lobster cream sauce and he had the Filet of Beef au Poivre. Both were oustanding! The beef was so tender you could cut it with a fork -- and it was cooked perfectly. My butterfish was very fresh, tender and delicious.

For dessert I had pre-ordered the "melting cake," a chocolate cake that is melting in the middle. Brinton had the homemade pumpkin swirl cheesecake. Both were out of this world. I overheard the waitress say to another guest that the desserts were made by the same lady who is now making desserts for Grace Restaurant.

It was a fabulous dining experience and one we will repeat again as soon as we can. So I rate it: Going Back Soon.

Saint Emilion
3617 W 7th St
Fort Worth, TX 76107
(817) 737-2781

Mac's on 7th

Four of the Food and Fort Worth staff (wife, son, son-in-law and daughter) went to Mac's on 7th Street the other night. The review from all four was a unanimous, "not going back, soon."

The service, staff and friendliness were reported as "very good," as was the location, building, design and layout. Unfortunately, here are the comments on the food,

"the rice had that dried-out crispy finish of being in the oven."
"pecan crusted trout was lukewarm . . ."
"Bread was late, brought after the soup . . ."
"Soup was lukewarm . . . potato leek, but I am not sure I actually got potato leek."
"the food was not up to expectations for the price . . ."

Maybe, it was just a bad night, maybe since it is new in Fort Worth, it is still working out the kinks. If someone has had a different experience, please let us know.

More Restaurants: the Mid-Price Range "Indies"

Fort Worth has a its share of large and independent restaurants, though not as many as we did 25 years ago. Some of them, like Joe T's, even have a state-wide reputation. I'll rate them, again, based on food quality and overall value.

Reata --- Actually, I'd put the Reata in the lower end of premium restaurants, but it is one of our more well known independents. The Reata was one of the original southwestern cuisine restaurants and still serves unusual dishes like quail and buffalo. It's an "experience" restaurant, big spaces, big a-typical menu, hundreds of people having a good time. But, it is very hard for a big restaurant to serve good food night after night, unless they have a limited menu. Mexican restaurants can do it because of that. To me it's best suited for a large- group business dinner or special occasion. If you go not expecting fine dining but casual dining with good food you'll be happy. Food quality and overall value: 7 of 10.

Joe T Garcias
Joe T's is the Fort Worth local restaurant. Saying anything bad about it brings the wrath of the local gods. It is a large restaurant and it has a very limited menu, but it's good. It's not great in my opinion, but it is good. I have never sat in the outdoors patio but I hear that is a great dining experience.
Food quality and overall value: 8 of 10.

Angelos Barbecue
Another restaurant has a long established tradition of good food. In my view, it's hard to distinguish the quality of our better barbecue restaurants. Angelos is good barbeque. But Fort Worth has a lot of good barbecue places. I prefer Railhouse. Angelo's is an old fashioned kind of place that you can feel comfortable bringing a bunch of friends, have some barbecue, and drink a few beers.
Food quality and overall value: 8 of 10.

Ruffino's Italian
In my opinion the best Italian food in town in the price range. But that's not saying much. Italian food is not our strongest cuisine.
Food quality and overall value: 8 of 10.

As I write this I scratch my head in search of more independent restaurants to write about and conclude that like every other enterprise, the family owned and operated restaurants have moved aside to big business establishments for the same reason that farming, automobile producing and retail shopping went the way of the national management, that is, lower prices and more consistent quality due to economy-of- scale purchasing and assembly line style cooking (watch the cooks "assemble" at Pappasitos). This is where Allen, over at The Whited Sepulchre, and I may part ways. I understand it, I defend it it to some extent, but I don't like it. It is a market-driven reality, but, we have lost something -- what we have lost is a discussion better had with a bottle of wine and some Charlies pizza.

More Mid Range Chain Restaurants . . .

More reviews of Fort Worth's medium-priced restaurants, as before, we're following the lead of Sunday's New York Times reviews.

Red Lobster: There just something about Red Lobster that keeps me away. It is moderately priced, and the foods not too bad, then again, it's not that good either.
Score: 5 of 10

Pappadeaux: Another place I don't get, though, I haven't always felt that way. Years ago, when the DFW area had only two Pappadeaux restaurants, Dallas and Arlington, my wife and I frequented the Arlington restaurant often. It was very good and on the upper end of middle range. Table cloths, cloth napkins, sharply dressed wait staff, and the seafood was as good as you could get at the price. Two years ago I went to the Pappadeaux on University and I thought I was in Red Lobster. Haven't been back.
Score: 6 0f 10

Outback Steakhouse: Good not great. They have the informal atmosphere- good food niche. It's a matter of taste, but when I pay good money for a steak I don't want to sit on a picnic bench. Plus, the bloomin' onion, Aussie thing bugs me. Whoopy-frickin-do, you can deep fry and onion and get it to bloom.
Score: 7 0f 10

Logans Roadhouse: I can't eat anywhere that reminds me of the '80's Patrick Swayze movie of the same name. Sorry. Besides, if I can throw peanut shells on the floor I better be watching baseball or drinking massive quantities of beer.
Score: (you tell me)

Saltgrass Steakhouse: I like them. If I am out for lunch or dinner, and near one, I'll often choose Saltgrass. I think their food quality is very good. Priced about the same as Outback but I prefer the atmosphere.
Score: 8 of 10

PF Changs: I like them, too. The food is good, if a little on the expensive side. The atmosphere is pleasant and the wait staff are helpful.
Score 8 of 10

Not chains, but places I like in Fort Worth in the same category: Seafood? I'm probably going to Zekes for a fish and chips or Daddy Jack's downtown for seafood in a dining atmosphere. Steaks, in the mid-price range? Charlestons is very good, even if I do raise the median age of diners by 10 years (and I'm 55). Asian? Pei Wei on 7th is good for the price. Casual atmosphere, good, hot food, fast service. Walk along the river afterwards with a coffee from Starbucks.

The Mid-Range Restaurant Chains

I read a lengthy Sunday NY Times article on mid-range price restaurant chains. The interesting lead to the article was the conclusion that many of them offer good meals at a good value. I am referring to restaurants like, Outback Steakhouse, PF Changs, Chili's, Applebees, Red Lobster, Olive Garden, etc.

A lot of food enthusiasts prefer not to eat at the chain restaurants and frequent the locally owned places. I agree in spirit, but in practice I think food quality is good, more dependable and often better at the chains, the food critics at the New York Times agreed.

For the next couple days I'll give my opinion on the local chains, starting today with the Mexican and Italian.

Mi Cocina's: I write about them often because the food is consistently good, the service is good and the serving sizes are enormous. One "tell" for a good restaurant: if you see the same waiters there year after year, something true at Mi Cocina's. Stay away from the $10 Mojito's.
Food taste score and value: 9 of 10

Gloria's: Not my favorite place. I understand many of you like it, but dollar for dollar I don't think they are close to Mi Cocina's. Technically, Gloria's is El Salvadoran with a touch of Tex-Mex. Their black beans are very good.
Food taste score and value: 6 of 10

Pappasito's: Great chips, good salsa, the best fajita's in town. One problem for me: it has a high energy buzz to it that I think is encouraged by the owners. I never get the feeling that I can relax and enjoy my meal. The decibel level is just too high.
Food taste and overall value: 7 of 10

Cantina Laredo: A little pricey, but it's an upscale kind of place and the food is very good.
Food taste and overall value: 8 of 10 (knocked down a little because of the price)

Uncle Julio's: Pappasito's lite. Good food, a local favorite, just too noisy for me.
Food taste and overall value: 7 of 10

The Olive Garden: Since I was raised in the back seat of an family-owned Italian restaurant I have a hard time eating at the Italian chains. I ate once at the Olive Garden 25 years ago and swore I'd never go back. People I trust say it's not bad these days.
Food taste and overall value: ? (you tell me)

Macaroni Grill: When they first opened they were very good. Now, I can't say much good about them. I have been twice in the last year and was disappointed both times.
Food taste and overall value: 6 of 10

In conclusion, you are not going to get a really bad meal in any of these restaurants. The better ones have established recipes that employees follow closely, which results in consistent quality, though sometimes boring selection. Because of the rigors of the corporate style they often are better than locally owned establishments. Yes, there are exceptions, like La Familia and Benitos. But -- at those two places the owner or manager is there and actively involved.

Next seafood and steaks.

Best Chinese Restaurant Suggestions . . .

I don't write about Chinese restaurants very often because I'm not a big fan. I like Thai, I don't care too much for Vietnamese, and Chinese, well, most of the dishes taste the same to me. I may not have been to good restaurants or it may be that it is just a personal preference but when its my time to choose a restaurant, in Fort Worth, it's either Mexican or Sushi.

But many people like Chinese food and Fort Worth has some favorites. My daughter likes Szechuan. I am going to include a Chinese restaurant in the January 2008, Best of Fort Worth and I am taking all suggestions. I'll take the two most suggested, visit with my wife and daughter (who like Chinese), and make a decision.

Please if you like Chinese and have a favorite, let me know.

Fort Worth Italian Restaurants, the winner is:

A post by Regular contributor, Rebecca:
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I would like to give some input on a few Italian restaurants I have visited lately, here goes:

Nona Tata - The food was fresh and good, but not really worth all the hype. In fact, my favorite part of the meal was the meat and cheese plate that we got as an appetizer and the desert. The main course was fine ( pasta with shrimp and scallops), but I was disappointed in the size of the shrimp - they were miniscule and barely made any impact on the dish at all. Also, it is almost too small for comfort. I probably won’t go again soon.

Ruffino's - Absolutely fabulous! I love this place and with half price bottles of wine on Thursday’s, it is truly at the top of the list as far as great food and atmosphere.

La Piazza- Does anyone know when they are ever open?? What’s the deal with them anyway?

Macaroni Grill - Always a good experience. The food is good and as long as you don’t mind waiting on a Friday or Saturday night, you won't be disappointed.

Sardines - I loved going there when they were on Camp Bowie! Somehow they have dropped into the background a bit, but my meal was delicious. I think they overdo it on the garlic (I can’t believe I am saying that) but it is always a good date night.

My favorite and I think the Best of Fort Worth: Ruffino's.

Coal Vines in Southlake -- Good and Fun

We went to Coal Vines in Southlake on Saturday night with some friends and found a great new place to get pizza and wine! It is a great concept – a wine bar that boasts gourmet pizza and a fun atmosphere. Wine Bars in general tend to have a little bit of a pretentious atmosphere about them and usually don’t serve much more than cheese, fruit and bruchetta and sometimes salads. Pizza places like to serve beer -- if you are lucky you can get a glass of cheap table wine. Coal Vines gives the best of both worlds. And the pizza was fabulous! We split the White Pizza Special which was ricotta, mozzarella, garlic and tomato slices on what was arguably the best crust I have ever eaten. It was thin, crispy on the bottom, with about a ¼ inch of chewy soft texture under all the toppings. The wine selection was equally good, with a variety of prices. The only negative about the experience was the wait -- the hostess told us it would be 30 minutes and after 45 minutes and seeing about 4 tables that were empty we went up and had to ask to be seated. They have patio seating and this is a great place for a casual date or to go with a group. The prices were good - $15 for a large pizza which we split between 4 people.

Guest Post by RJS

Pei-Wei is genius!

Guest post from a friend of Food and Fort Worth: food critic and gourmand, Andrew. He is a teacher in San Antonio, Texas
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Waiters are annoying. They either insert themselves far too often, interrupting the natural flow of conversation with inane questions and ‘upsells’, or they are totally absent leaving the table messy and the drinks empty. Rarely, if ever, does a waiter strike the right balance.

It is often hard for me to understand why waiters are necessary at all. The only thing they do that I can’t is type in the order on the computer. Everything else I can do. Fill up drinks at a fountain? Check. Grab napkins? Check. Put my food in a to-go bag? Check. I can think of plenty of reasons why I don’t need them: they might spit in my food, they might not wash their hands, they might not ever fill my tea up, they might mess up my order, and they might forget to put my order in and then tell me twenty minutes later that they are ‘in the weeds’.

The annoyed consumer, however, has generally had to suffer through them if he wanted a convenient meal above the quality of Taco Bell. Some restaurant groups have picked up on the market opportunity and have started the hybrid “fast-casual” concept. One of my favorites among these “fast casual” restaurants is Pei-Wei. Pei-Wei has perfected the fast-casual scheme. I’ll run down the list of why I think they run this scheme so well.

1. The no-waiter scheme means they never have more than 12-14 people working during a shift. Most typical casual restaurants have probably 30-40 for any given shift. This means that Pei-Wei can hire the best people that apply and not just whoever walks in the door. It also means less overhead, less liability, and less chance that things will get screwed up.
2. They don’t need “waiter space” and so can have more room for tables. They are able to be in smaller spaces than most casual restaurants, reducing the cost of rent.
3. They have 2 people on a shift who are wholly dedicated to food-running. There is no food languishing under hot lamps at Pei-Wei. I’ve never received a cold dish. The food-runner scheme also prevents a gridlock of people at the front of the restaurant grabbing their own food.
4. The atmosphere is welcoming and comfortable unlike most fast-food restaurants.
5. The food is very good. All the rest would be useless if the food stank but Pei-Wei actually has really good food. It’s not gourmet but it is simple and tasty.
6. They seem to pass the savings on. A big plate of Pad Thai is only 6 bucks.That’s only a dollar more than a typical visit to McD’s but significantly cheaper than Chili's.
   

La Familia and Sukhothai. Always Good.

There are many good family-run restaurants in the area that serve excellent food at a fair price. I would like to mention two of them. The cooks for these restaurants will never be featured on the Food Network and I doubt the owners will be running for mayor. Their dinner plates have no swirled sauces and no vertical garnishes. There is not much subtlety in the tastes. But their food is good. The wait staff is friendly and you can enjoy a nice evening with a few friends and not spend a fortune.
La Familia Mexican Restaurant in Fort Worth and Sukhothai in Arlington.
In the F&FW poll of your favorite Mexican restaurants La Familia polled highly. Second place and almost first. I think that has to do with the fact that the visitors to this weblog are locals who know the authentic places in Fort Worth. And La Familia is a local favorite. It serves a good plate of Mexican food and treats everyone like a regular. La Familia moved a year or so ago to just off 7th on Foch Street. Al Cavaso the founder and owner has built a good, solid restaurant business the old fashioned way -- good food and appreciating the customer.
Sukhothai restaurant, off Fielder Road just south of I30, is as good as it gets in the category. Traditional Thai food. Again, family owned and operated. This a small restaurant in a old strip shopping center with seating for 30 maybe and it is truly family run. But man can they cook. Their Thai dishes are the best I have ever had. Each dish is served as it is ready, in keeping with the tradition of sharing different plates amongst the dinner party. I like it because everything is piping hot when served. Sukhothai is "bring your own wine" establishment. I am never disappointed when I go there. Sometimes we can talk the owners 10 year (?) old son into playing the violin. It's a treat when he does. Entrees are $10 - 15. The appetizers are delicious. Take your time and enjoy, no one will hurry you here. By the way, Sukhothai does have a Zagat rating.

What's Right About Nonna Tata

(Editor's Note to web searchers: This post was written almost 2 years ago. Since then I have received more bad reviews about Nonna Tata, written and in conversation, than good ones. Food and Fort Worth no longer endorses this restaurant in a "Best of" Category)
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I was in Philadelphia when the Fort Worth Star-Telegram ran an article on the new Italian restaurant Nonna Tata. I read the review yesterday and have to say that they got it right. The following quote pays a high compliment:

Make no mistake: Trotti's Nonna Tata is not just a restaurant that Fort Worth should be thankful for, it's one that would be treasured in any city in the nation, including New York or San Francisco. (September 19, 2007 / FWST )

High praise that is well deserved.

I am puzzled why more people don't start restaurants in the same way. That is, she makes the food she loves and knows. She is present. She greets her guests. The menu is limited to what can be done well. The overhead is low and the seating is limited but suitable to her budget and her time. Is she going to get rich with a small restaurant? No, but she seems to be enjoying herself, and if she wants to expand, she can, and do very well.

Fort Worth needs authentic Italian cuisine, until she opened I think our Italian food has been mostly bad with a few exceptions like La Piazza. But that's a little pricey. Nonna Tata has a more affordable menu, so it's more of an everyday restaurant and not a special occasion restaurant.

If you want an authentic, reasonably-priced Italian restaurant try Nonna Tata.

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Nonna Tata: 817-332-0250, Magnolia Ave, Fort Worth, Texas

Fort Worth Star Telegram article: http://www.star-telegram.com/food/story/239949.html